Belfast c1825

SBW note: This booklet mentions some token issuers of the last century and gives a nice account of Belfast long ago. It is here in full. There are no spelling mistakes or typos in the original so all errors have been introduced by the scanning and OCR process. Many, many, many errors have been corrected, but some still exist. The booklet itself is in 2 sections, "Belfast 50 years ago" and "Belfast and its people." Note that the last few pages give a street by street listing of houses and male/female occupants, followed by a list of a few other interesting booklets. Many pages have a footnote, referenced in the text by a superscripted number, which are given here as a simple number in the text. Sadly, the map referred to in the introduction wasn't in my copy. I have highlighted a few with a token/medallion interest.

A Lecture by Thomas Gaffikin
"Belfast Fifty Years Ago" presented April 8th 1875
Part 1. "Belfast 50 years ago"

BELFAST: JAMES CLEELAND
BIBLE WAREHOUSE
26 ARTHUR STREET
1894

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PREFACE.

THE first edition of this Lecture was published in 1875, and a second edition in 1885, in which Mr. Gaffikin narrated more of his "recollections." Both editions have been long out of print, and in response to repeated inquiries, it has been thought that a third edition, with notes and additional matter, would be appreciated. These notes and additions have been made by the publisher and friends interested in the past history of our city.

Through the kindness of R. M. Young, Esq., we are enabled to reproduce a facsimile of a very rare map of Belfast, published in 1819 corresponding to the time of which Mr. Gaffikin treats, thus showing at a glance the rapid strides in progress and improvement our city has since made.

Owing to the length of time (19 years) which has elapsed since the lecture was delivered, readers should note that the events, &c., described, refer to a time now not fifty, but seventy years ago.

For a general outline of Old Belfast history antecedent to these recollections, we have pleasure in referring our readers to the two admirable lectures of Mr. S. Ramsey, who graphically describes "How our town came to be, and how it grew," to be had from the publisher of this pamphlet.

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THE LATE THOMAS GAFFIKIN, ESQ., J.P

THOMAS GAFKIN, Esq., the author of this important contribution to the annals of our city, passed away from us on March 26th, 1893, at the ripe old age of 82 years. Born in Belfast in the early part of the century, he witnessed during his long and useful life many changes in his native town. As an old resident he took a deep and intelligent interest in every movement calculated to promote its prosperity and development, and to his sound advice and sagacity we are to a great extent indebted for many improvements which have been, and are still being carried out in our busy city. Familiar with it, as we may say, from its commercial infancy, he helped to rock the cradle of that prosperity for which it is remarkable, and was privileged to see the high position to which it has attained - the commercial capital of Ireland.
Associated with his three sons in the linen trade, he was fully conversant with every question affecting the staple manufacture of Ulster, and furthered every movement bearing on its interests. For more than thirty years he was one of the most active members of the Town Council, and was well known in connection with most of the important trusts of the city.
Whether as one of the leading directors of the Botanic as chairman of the Water Trust, or as Poor-law guardian, he won the respect and esteem of his fellow citizens for his faithful, earnest, and judicious labours.
In the Working Men's Institute he took a lively interest, and perhaps more than any other person contributed to raise it to that degree of usefulness for which it is distinguished, and to his exertions the class whom it was designed to benefit owe a debt of lasting gratitude.

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BELFAST FIFTY YEARS AGO.

I do not appear before you in the capacity of a lecturer, but simply to endeavour, as briefly as possible, to convey an impression from memory of what Belfast was like in my schoolboy days-now more than fifty years ago. While I attempt to describe the boundaries and extent of the town, you yourselves will be able to compare the past with the present; and for this purpose I will now start with you on a tour of inspection, presuming that we have come over from Ballymacarrett, across the old Long Bridge 1, with its cracked arches and narrow roadway. Its situation may be taken as the site of the present Queen's Bridge, which is now as crowded as ever the old bridge was. The old Long Bridge was composed of twenty-one arches, was very narrow, and had no footways. The breakwater or pier between some of the arches was carried up to the retaining wall, and formed little angular recesses, which people sometimes had to step into when two conveyances were passing. Two of such niches are still to be seen on the old Saltwater Bridge, Sandy Row. Arriving at the County Antrim end of the bridge, let us go northwards. The river was then wider, and the quay was consequently narrower. There was but little space between the river and the dwellings of Mr. Waterson at the corner of Ann Street, Mr. Shea, Mr. Ekenhead, and Captain Skinner. These private houses occupied most of the space between the bridge end and the old Custom House.3 The old Custom House building has been remodelled, and is now occupied by Messrs. Robert Henderson & Son as a Shipping and Steam Packet 4. Few parts of the town present a more altered appearance than this corner. The quays which were formerly close to the houses, and only available at high water, have been carried out to the deep part of the river. The wide open spaces on both sides of the

1. Taken down in 1841; Queen's Bridge opened in beginning of 1843.
2. Only one niche now remaining.
3. Nearly all converted into Shops.
4. New Messrs. Burns Shopping Office

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present Custom House were two old shallow docks. A Narrow neck of land, comprised in the site of the present Custom House, ran out between these docks, and on the extremity of it stood the old Ballast Office. These docks, extended to Prince's Street and Tomb Street respectively, and behind and about them were gathered some very inferior streets and lanes. The dock that lay between the Ballast Office and the old Custom House (that is, the continuation of High Street) was called Hanover Quay, where the coal vessels lay. There were no steam tugs then to bring up the vessels from the sea in a few hours. In a succession of tides they were worked up the tortuous channel, and when comfortably berthed, they seemed in no hurry to get away. There were usually ten or twelve of them lying here for two or three weeks, while their cargoes were disposed of, oftener by retail than wholesale.
In addition to the carters, country carriers, and coal-dealers, there was a class called bagmen, so named because they canvassed the smaller householders of the town, and ascertained when they wanted a bag of coal, which they carried to them from the ship. The householders who purchased by the ton were canvassed by the captains of the vessels, who, when the cargoes were cleared out, collected their accounts, and prepared for another voyage. The dock on the other side of the Ballast Office, reaching up to Tomb Street and Waring Street, was called Limekiln Dock. Store Lane, a narrow and offensive thoroughfare, ran behind these docks, and was the communication between Prince's Street and Tomb Street.
Passing down the river side, called in successive parts Merchant's Quay and Donegall Quay, we arrive at Ritchie's Dock. Here the merchant vessels that could be brought up the river were discharged and re-loaded. The larger craft, such as the timber vessels, lay at Garmoyle, or the Whitehouse Roads, and, after discharging, some of them were roughly fitted up for passengers, and took out batches of emigrants to America. Next to Ritchie's Dock was the ship-yard in James's Street. (James's Street, with many others, has been absorbed by Corporation Street.) With the exception of the Messrs. Wilson's provision stores, I do not recollect any building of such pretensions as to interrupt the view down to Thomson's Bank, which had then been recently reclaimed from the sea.
Between the river and York Street lay a great stretch of waste ground-it was called "The Point Fields," almost entirely

1. Now Queen's Square and Albert Square.
2. Now Corporation Square.

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possessed by sea birds in the winter, and in summer the free grazing ground of promiscuous stock. It was often the scene of man fights, cock fights, dog fights, and bull baiting. It was, in fact, the People's Park of that day, and almost as unattractive as the slob ground called the Victoria or People's Park of the present day. This waste is now occupied by streets of houses, docks, stores, foundries, and timber yards, down to the Northern Counties Railway.
Turning westwards the boundary of the town would next be marked by Lilliput 1 and Garden Hill houses, and a few cottages on the old Carrickfergus Road. This is now called North Queen Street.
It must be remembered that many of what are now the main arteries of the town are of comparatively recent development. If you will forgive a digression this will soon be realized by comparing one of the former leading highways through the town with the present probable route. A conveyance driving now from Dublin to Carrickfergus would enter the town by the Lisburn Road, proceed down Bedford Street, Donegall Place, High Street, Donegall Street, and York Street. At the time I speak of, the Lisburn Road was only being made; the old highway between Dublin and Carrickfergus came down the present University Road (the angle at Fountainville did not exist). The road ran straight into Sandy Row; arriving at the Pound, it turned into Barrack Street, passed through Millfield and Carrick Hill into what is now called North Queen Street. That route would only be taken now to avoid observation.
We resume our survey by noticing on the outskirts of the town, Pinkerton's Row, 2 Lepper's 3 and Mulholland's cotton mills, and the new Infantry Barracks, where a man named Livingstone astonished us fifty years ago by his balloon ascent. He made three attempts on three successive days, and finally got up on the evening of the third day. He came down at Fortwilliam, and was carried back in triumph to the town. Messrs. Mulholland's mill was burned shortly after on a Sunday in midsummer, disturbing the congregation in St. Anne's Church. The military officers in full uniform occupied the Corporation seat, and, when Mrs. Hamilton, the sextoness, intimated that they were wanted, their exit caused one of the congregation to leave, I am certain; for I was at the fire as soon as the officers. Leaving the Infantry

1. Still standing.
2. Now New Lodge Road.
3. Destroyed by fire in 1875; Churchill and Dawson Streets, etc. are built on the site.

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Barracks, a few thatched houses 1 on one side of the road bring us to the gate of the old Poorhouse, which then opened at the head of Donegall Street. The new Roman Catholic chapel on one side of Donegall Street, and Boyd's Belfast Foundry on the other, then seemed more prominent than at present. From this point we had no road westwards except a narrow and crooked lane past the new burying-ground. This was the only enclosed burying place we had, and the demand for ground soon obliged the committee to extend the grave-yard to double its original dimensions This narrow lane leading to Pebble Cottage 2 and Buttermilk Loaning has been widened, and in the main it is now embraced by our Clifton and Duncairn Streets, but one or two old cottages still exist, and show the course of the lane 3. The entrance to the Poorhouse has been changed to opposite Frederick Street. Continuing our course round the boundaries of the town, we pass Carrick Hill and Lodge Road, Peter's Hill, Brown's Square, Millfield, and Barrack Street, until we arrive at the Pound. Then we must follow Sandy Row, which, as I have already stated was part of the old Dublin Road; but you must not suppose that we had a compact town inside the limits I have named. In all towns and villages the main roads are first lined with houses, and Sandy Row stretched in this way so far from the town as to be an outlying district. It was the boundary of the town in that direction, but all between it and the Linen Hall was grass land. This ground lay low; the Blackstaff River ran through it; and in winter much of it was covered with water. At such times the Mall Ditch was a great convenience for the people living about Tea Lane. This Mall Ditch was a mound or bank of considerable dimensions, extending from the front enclosure of the Academical Institution to the Saltwater Bridge, where Sandy Row crosses the Blackstaff. The tide ran inland to this bridge. It may be worth noticing that the course of the river between this point and the Dublin Bridge at Bedford Street has been considerably altered. It had more windings then. One bend that seems entirely effaced brought it close under the rere wall of the old "House of Correction" in Howard Street.
The only buildings beyond the Linen Hall were M'Clean's new houses in Donegall Square South, and a small mill, four stories high, with a belfry on the top, where Mr. Duffin's Clarence Street factory now stands, beside the Covenanting meeting house 4. This belfry was often made to serve as a target for ball practice on the first establishment of the constabulary force here, under

1. Long since removed. The only thatched houses now in the city are the three opposite the Friends' Institute, Frederick Street.
2. Opposite New Lodge Road adjoining Duncairn Presbyterian church, at present occupied by Mr. William Miskimmin.
3. All gone now.
4. See note p. 15

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Major Darcy, who lived in M'Clean's Buildings 1 Bankmore House 2 was in the country, outside the borough boundary, and so were a few cottages on the river side, close to the bridge, some of which, though altered, still exist 3. Taking the Blackstaff as our boundary, we soon come to Mr. Joy's paper mill and the row of workers' houses 4, which. till recently, stood between the mill and the Cromac bridge 5. On the opposite, or town side, Joy's dam covered the space now occupied by Joy Street (the arches communicating between the river and the dam are still visible), 6. From this point the embankment of the river downwards was much frequented by the inhabitants; it was then a pleasant walk, having the broad river on one hand, and grass land extending to Cromac Street on the other. An approach to this land from Cromac Street was called Clabber Loney. On this embankment, opposite to where the Gas Works are built, there was a constant running spring, called the "Cromac Spa." It was much frequented by people carrying away the water, or drinking it, with a little adulteration brought for the purpose. Continuing our walk along the river side, we come to May's Dock, which extended back into Poultry Square (what is now called Police Square) 7. There were two bridges across this dock-one near the entrance leading to May's Fields, the other connecting Church Lane with Cromac Street and May's Market. Church Lane was then the continuation of Cromac Street. That wide and splendid thoroughfare now leading from Cromac Street to Corporation Street could then have scarcely been imagined.
This brings us back to our starting point with, perhaps, the impression that few changes in Belfast are more remarkable than the gradual occupation by the town of places formerly, to a more or less extent, covered with water; and this movement has been long on foot. I have heard old people talking of the time when the river in High Street was open, and describing when markets were held, how both sides of the river were occupied by stalls in front of the houses.
A reference to the suburbs may be interesting to those who enjoy an occasional walk along some of the leading roads and approaches to the town. The Shore Road was fashionable for a walk or drive to the Whitehouse, Whiteabbey, the Deer Park, and Cave Hill, especially on Sunday. Although the Antrim Road did

1. At corner of Donegall Square South and Linen Hall Street
2. Still standing at rere of Marcus Ward & cos.
3. All gone.
4. All gone
5. Removed when forming the covered course of the river from Bedford Street to Ormeau Road, 1884.
6. Now covered over by the roadway
7. Now Victoria Square.

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not then exist, I believe more people visited the Cave Hill upon holidays when the town was one-fourth its size than do so flow. The Shankhill Road was much frequented on account of the baths and racket courts, and as an outlet to Squire's Hill and the bracing air of Clement's Mountain. The Falls Road was but little built upon. The house at the angle with Barrack Street was Watson's public-house; it was known as Watson's Corner. In earlier times, a toll, or custom, was collected here on all farm produce coming into town. Leaving the few houses opposite the distillery, there were no more houses on that side of the road up to the Clowney Bridge, except a curds and cream house opposite where Mr. Charters afterwards built his mill, and a small cabin opposite the present "Bee Hive." Both the Shankhill and Falls Road were largely availed of by visitors to Divis about this time. I should think that, about 1825 or 1826, more people found their way to the top of Divis than have likely been there since. The military engineers commenced the Ordnance survey on this mountain, and in fine weather, the people thronged to see the encampment of the sappers and miners. Next we come to the Dublin Road, which passes through the classic ground of Malone, and joins the Falls Road at Barrack Street, so called because the old barracks were situated there. The new barracks had recently been erected, and the old building was used as the military hospital. The same old building is now happily and usefully employed as the Ragged School and District Dispensary.
The Dublin Road, like all the other approaches to the town, was paved in the centre with large boulder stones to the rising ground at Fountainville (the only roads about the town that still exhibit this old style of pavement are the Strandtown Road, near Gelston's Corner, and the old Ballygowan road at Gooseberry Corner).' The first toll-bar on the Dublin Road was where the new Methodist Church now stands, it interrupted the progress of all vehicles except the Royal Mail Coach, which, with four fresh horses in front, and a couple of guards fully armed behind, took the hill at a canter. It was a steeper hill then than now. The farmers, coming out of town with heavy loads, often had to lighten their carts here. One side of the road was constantly studded with little heaps of manure left off, to be taken again at leisure. When the new Lisburn Road was made, the toll-bar was brought nearer to the town, and fixed at the junction of the two roads. Speaking of this locality, I cannot help relating a slight circumstance that affected myself, for little boys will sometimes long remember any real or supposed grievance that, by accident

1. Now modernized.

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or otherwise, may be inflicted on them. I was flying my kite on the road when Mr Younghusband was passing in his gig, and being a commissioner of the turnpike trust, he ordered his servant to destroy my kite which he did most effectually. I have forgiven him, but you see I haven't forgotten it. To give you an impression of the changes that have taken place in this neighbourhood, I have seen Mr. Sinclair's hounds and a field of red coats gallop across the ver tied flow occupied by the Union Workhouse. At the junction of the old and new Dublin Roads was the old Blackstaff Lane, extending to the Falls and crossing the Blackwater River, which is the proper name of this now celebrated stream. The term Blackstaff was only known as referring to this lane, which was a country road between the Falls and Lower Malone in the last century. The site of Mountcharles and University Street was Mr. Lindsay's nursery ground, and where his son built a yacht, rigged and finished her completely. He had her drawn into town, and launched at the slip at Donegall Quay. She was considered a rare specimen of naval architecture, and was a well-known craft in Belfast Lough for many years. The Botanic Gardens were then Mr. M'Dowell's farm and country seat. Friar's Bush graveyard was an unenclosed circular mound, occupying about an acre of ground, where the inhabitants of all creeds buried their dead. The Marquis of Donegal afterwards gave ground to increase it to its present dimensions. It was then walled in, and is now almost exclusively a Roman Catholic burial place. About this time considerable excitement prevailed with respect to burials. Subjects, as they were called, were in great demand, and our graveyards (with the exception of the new burying-ground), being unenclosed and unprotected, it was customary for the friends of the deceased to watch their graves for several nights after the interments 1.
Strandmillis was a favourite resort, and the canal bank was then, as at present, a popular route to Shaw's Bridge. To go round by Shaw's Bridge, as it is called, was then a more serious undertaking than at present. The Ormeau Road was not complete, so the only way back to town was by the Rookery, or Ballynafeigh Road, into Ballymacarrett. Ballymacarrett was in those days a centre or industry the foundry, glass-blowing, watch-glass making, rope-making, weaving, lime-burning, vitriol and salt works were in operation. At that time it could boast of having public gardens, an hotel, racket and ball courts, and all the roads were paved in the centre, in the manner I have already spoken of. The shore or strand, stretching from the site of the County Down Railway Station to Connswater, was the great sea bathing place for those who could not afford to go to Holy-

1 A watch-house still exists in Shankhill graveyard at the N.W. corner.

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wood. In addition to the expensiveness of public conveyances in those days, there were very few of them. I remember when Belfast could boast of only four outside cars. Of course there were boats to Holywood, but it was a tedious journey, especially when the tide was out - in fact, of all the approaches to the town, the most improved is the approach from the sea. At present we have magnificent channel and river steamers landing their passengers upon our streets at every condition of the tide by means of the deepened river and the new cut that has superseded the old and circuitous channel. It was usually the fate of the old Eclipse, the Rob Roy, the Fitgal, or the Chieftain steamers to miss the tide, and stop between Whitehouse and Holywood. Then an open boat would come alongside, and any passenger anxious to get up to town had the offer of being rowed up "in no time" for a shilling. After the wearying journey of twenty two hours from Glasgow or Liverpool, many of the passengers were glad to leave the steamer on the terms; but after the shillings were collected the boatmen cried out, "Can take a few more at sixpence." When they had secured as many passengers as the boat could carry without a certainty of drowning them, they began their journey, the pleasures of which on a cold wintry morning were not much relished.
The County Down side of the harbour was called Voke's Quay, and was principally occupied by lighters, lime cobbs, or vessels undergoing repairs. This brings us back to
The old Long Bridge, some twenty feet wide,
With numerous arches for spanning the tide
Holes made in the walls to drain off the wet,
And niches for safety when vehicles met.

About this time the population numbered some thirty-five or forty thousand.* The principal trades were cotton spinning, tanning, timber, and provisions. We had four or live cotton mills, about twenty tan-yards, and extensive provision stores, in different quarters of the town. Smithfield was the principal market for miscellaneous goods, such as hides, wool, clothing, house furnishing (new and old), and every description of farm stock and produce.
We had two fairs in the year - 12th of November and 12th of August - the latter called Lammas Fair Day. The horse fair was held in York Street, it being but partially built. May's Market was for grain, potatoes, fruit, and other household wants, such as fowl, butter, meat, and eggs, and I must remark that these latter commodities have increased in value more than double since 1825.

* See Appendix.

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A few hanks of yarn were to be seen there, peeping out of an egg or butter basket, or from under the arm of the owner; and while the country house-wives were selling the produce of the spinning wheel, the Brown Linen Market in Donegall Street, which today has its stone benches overgrown with weeds and nettles, and presents all the appearance of a disused graveyard, was a lively business place every market day. Montgomery's, or what is now Castle Market, was for fruit and vegetables, and where the farmers retailed their early potatoes. The fish market was in William Street South, called Gowdy's ** Market (the gateway entrance is still to be seen). The Pork and wholesale butter markets were held in Tomb Street and on the streets adjoining. Belfast was celebrated for its firkin butter, just as Cork is at present. Fast sailing smacks, owned by Langtry and Montgomery, were constantly employed in carrying provisions to London and other English ports.
Our military displays, holidays, and public amusements were frequent, enjoyable, and free from political or party feeling. On the 17th of March, from midnight, the inhabitants were kept awake by the fife and drum discoursing the well-known national air of "Patrick's Day." On Easter Monday all business was suspended for the Shore Road and Cave Hill, with the military or other bands. On the king's birthday we had a grand review and firing of cannon in Chichester Street, then called South Parade. At an earlier date we had an artillery barrack in Ann Street, afterwards commonly called the Train Barrack Yard; but it is now known as Cooney's Court 1. The four large guns used at Ballynahinch in 1798 were taken from this yard, and portions of the old barracks where the French prisoners 2, were confined are still to be seen, 3. On the 24th of June, Donegall Square North was alive with Masonic lodges, with bands, flags, and other regalia, preparing to march to some neighbouring village, and on the 12th of July the Orangemen had a similar display.
The Maze races, occupying an entire week in July, gathered the elite of the town and neighbourhood together, especially on Thursday, the then Derby day, when the middle classes turned out in their best. We had horse racing in winter also. The Christmas holidays were chiefly spent in shooting and racing, and all the local bits of blood were trained and prepared for the races at Ballyhackamore on Christmas Day.4
The Theatre, under Maywood's and Talbot's management, was much frequented 5. The patronage of the Donegall family

1. Demolished in March, 1894. The second Barrack was in Barrack Street, and built in 1737.
2. Taken in Thurot's expedition.
3. See note 1
4. Still known as "The Course."
5. I.e. The Old Theatre erected in 1791. The New Theatre was built in 1871; burnt on 8th June, 1881, and reopened 22nd December of the same year.

** Gowdy was my mother's Maiden name (SBW)

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and the upper classes enabled the managers to invite the leading stars of the time. In Talbot's time as lessee and manager, a beautiful drop scene was painted by Atkins,' representing the Cave Hill from the town side.
Balls and masquerades were held in the Exchange Rooms, (which is now the Belfast Bank). Ward's Annual Lotteries were a great source of excitement. The office was in High Street, and when the drawing time came, a crowd used to gather round the place.
We had open-air circus performances, and Smithfield never wanted a show booth or a recruiting party. On Sunday mornings the Yeomen paraded in Donegall Place. The Yeomen were a local auxiliary regiment, composed principally of Belfast men, and officered by connections and friends of the Donegall family. It was rather amusing to young people to see the working men they knew through the week dressed in military costume on Sunday morning. The house now occupied as the Royal Hotel was the Marquis' town house, in view of the parade ground. The Yeomen's band used to play in the evenings at Ormeau house 2 long after this regiment was disbanded. On Sunday, the Military band played in front of their regiment to the Parish Church, and on Sunday evenings, in summer, performed for two hours at the Linen Hall.
Donegall Place, or what was commonly called the "flags," was the aristocratic promenade, whilst the head of the Dock, and Mullen's corner 3 in North Street (where I saw two men publicly flogged), were the democratic lounges.
The Donegall family had a great many employees and retainers at Ormeau, besides some important offices in town. Mr. Macartney's office (as law agent) was in Arthur Street, Mr. Sloan's, the rent agent's office, was in Castle Place, where Malcomson's shop is at present, and the entrance was by Mr. Stewart's garden. Hector, the bookmaker in Castle Place, was bandmaster, Davis was head groom, and Adams was the local gamekeeper. When the Marquis rode his white or bay pony into town his attendant rode a thoroughbred, and her ladyship's carriage and four was attended by two outriders.
The medical profession at this time was well represented by such names as Forcade, Forsythe, M'Cluney, M'Donald, Thompson, and Purdon, whilst in High Street alone there flourished the

1. Atkins lived in nack Lane, Princes Street, and was the protege of the then Marquis of Donegall and Narcissus Batt, Esq, who sent him to Rome to pursue his studies. He died at Malta on his way homeward.
2. Taken down when the property was acquired by the corporation for a Public Park.
3. At junction of North Street and Millfield.

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apothecaries shops of Moore, Montgomery, Arrott, Marshall, Bryson, and Murray, afterwards Sir James Murray, the inventor of Fluid Magnesia. Bruce and Smylie were apothecaries and dentists in Corn Market.
The Press was chiefly represented by the Belfast Newsletter, the Commercial Chronical, and the Irishman. The Northern Whig newspaper had just started. The Gas Company was established about the same time. Newspapers were then too expensive for the million, who more highly appreciated the poetical effusions in which M'Keown circulated the stale foreign news and the fresh local gossip. I remember such ballads as "A Lament for Napoleon on the Isle of St. Helena," "Livingston's Great Balloon Ascent," "Jack Lawless' Duel with Greg," "Pugilistic Encounter between Molyneux and Maglone," and "A Mermaid Caught by the Carrickfergus Fishermen." For several days great excitement was kept up about a strange marine animal, said to be half woman, half fish, that had been taken near the Isle of Man, Hundreds made their way to Carrickfergus to see it, but had such difficulty in describing it on their return that hundreds more went to get satisfaction for themselves.
The places of worship were in proportion to the population. We had two Episcopal churches-the Parish and St George's (called the Chapel of Ease) - two Roman Catholic, five Presbyterian, two Methodist, and one Covenanting places of worship. The Clergymen in charge, as I recollect them, were: -Revs. Brown and Macartney at the Parish; Fee and Bland at St. George's; Dr. Crolly, Dr. Bruce, Dr. Hanna, Mr. M'Ewen, Mr. Aitcheson, Mr. Deary, who lived at the little Methodist Chapel in Donegall Square, and Mr. Alexander, the Covenanter, whose remains were interred in the enclosed ground in front of his little church, now in Linenhall Street.' We had open-air preaching also. A tall man, with a very long beard, called Duncan Livings tone, attracted the attention of the juveniles especially when he held forth. Some of these places of worship have been enlarged or rebuilt, and are all used at present, with the exception of the Methodist Chapel in Cotton Court.
The judicial administration of our local authorities was not of a very laborious nature. Mr. Verner was Sovereign Captain Skinner, or Mr. Ferrar, stipendiary magistrate, sat at the Police Office, in Rosemary Street, every second day, and disposed of the summons and custody cases. We had two day constables, named Warren and White, who kept the peace by day, and attended the theatre at night.

1. Removed about ten years ago when Linenhall Street was continued into Ormeau Avenue. It was a small building with grass plot in front, railed in from the street, and in the north corner was a tombstone in memory of Rev. J. Alexander its former pastor. The Blackstaff River ran behind it.

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Our local prison was the House of Correction in Howard Street. In front could be seen cut in stone in prominent letters -
"Within amend, without beware." 1

The was repeated, and a second line added by those who were obliged occasionally to profit by it, ran thus

"Within amend, without beware,
Or Sergeant Henry will cut your hair."

Prisoners charged with serious offences were sent to the County Jail at Carrickfergus; and the Judges passing through Belfast twice in the year, with trumpeters and a military escort, caused a sensational awe among the crowds assembled, as Allen M'Quilkin, the hangman, was frequently employed after the Assizes.
Among the street criers and other celebrities, our bell-man deserves the pre-eminence. He had a very ruddy complexion, his knee-breeches were generally untied, and his other garments hang loosely on him, as if he had not time to complete his toilet, so anxious was he to carry out his instructions. He made a fearfull noise with his hell, when calling out for a child that was lost or found, the arrival of a cargo of herrings or potatoes, or any extraordinary event.
We had abundance of ballad-singers and musicians, who, with the old watchmen calling the hours, striking their pikes on the pavement, or springing their rattles on the slightest disturbance or report of a fire, and sweeps, oystermen, piemen, tape sellers, criers of Ballinderry onions and Cromac water, kept up the noise from morning till night.
The street musicians were quite different from our present organ-grinders and German bands. The single clarionet, cane flute, or Cockeybendy's fiddle, satisfied the musical taste in some quarters. Cockeybendy was a very little bandy-legged man, who knew the tune to play at every house in the locality he frequented. "Garryowen," "Patrick's Day," and the "Boyne Water" were his best paying airs.
Several well-known harmless creatures lived constantly about the town. We had Orange Billy, Jack Orr, Jemmy Osborne, and Tantra Barbus. Tantra Barbus was a man who would have danced far buttons, or swam across the river at the Long Bridge on the coldest day in winter for a few coppers. Jemmy Osborne was an innocent fellow who attended the markets to carry parcels for purchasers. The story that some people may have heard about the herrings is quite correct. He was often employed in carrying letters to the post-office, which he did very carefully.

1. This inscription was on a building inside the boundary walls.

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One day Mr. Whinnery, who lived at the Post-office, 1, in Church Street, bought a dozen of herrings in the market, and gave them to Jemmy to carry home. Jemmy delivered them very carefully; but he evidently thought that all parcels for the postmaster should he delivered at the same place, for he dropped the herrings one by one into the letter box.
Our schools were pretty numerous, considering the population; and, judging by some of the men they have turned out, they were not behind their time. The Academical Institution, the Belfast Academy, Davis's, Shaw's, Bullick's, Spence's, and Telfair's were the principal.
The chief hotels were Wilson's Donegall Arms, and Pat Lynn's White Cross, both in Castle Place; Ward's at the Commercial Buildings; Clark's, O'Neill's, Jamison's, Campbell's, Higginson's, besides many others. From several of these a coach or other conveyance started daily for the adjoining towns. We had two competing lines to Dublin, the Mail and Fair Trader coaches (I wish we had two competing lines to Dublin now). The Mail started from Castle Place, and the Fair Trader from the Commercial Hotel. In times of public excitement great crowds used to collect about the time the coach was expected, and very important looked the guard and coachman as they detailed the latest news from the metropolis. Pat Corr and Sam M'Clean had charge of the Royal Day Mail; Mr, Greer, of Newry, was owner, Mr. Woods was agent, and Billy Scott was chief porter-at this time a parcel van, drawn by four horses, was despatched for Dublin once a week. The Fair Trader coach was managed by a Mr. Pim, of Dublin, but he resided in Belfast when in charge of the northern portion of the road. For the northern towns Miskelly's coaches started from North Street. A mail coach, with the English and Scotch letters, also ran daily to Donaghadee in connexion with the short sea passage to Portpatrick, which Lord Castlereagh had promoted.
The hotels not merely supplied the public conveyances, but were able to furnish for hire a postchaise, a sociable, or a saddle pony, besides undertaking. Private carriages were few, and principally confined to Donegall Place. They were large, and painted a bright-yellow colour, with a stand behind for powdered footmen. The postchaise was a two-horse four wheeled machine. The body of it was suspended by strong leathern straps, and it was the usual conveyance for hire on every

1. Afterwards removed to Donegall Street, thence successively to Rosemary Street, corner or Legg's Lane; Custom House in Queen's Square, and finally to Royal Avenue. For many years after its removal to Rosemary Street, the words "Post Office" in iron letters, projected from the old premises in Donegall Street, then occupied by Moses Crothers, a grocer.

page 18

important occasion. A sociable was our inside car, without the cover. It was made of an oval shape, with high, light springs, and when five or six persons got into it they were soon sociable enough.
The town was lighted by oil lamps, of the old pot shape. A large percentage of them either refused to burn, or took the first opportunity of going out. But if the advantages were trifling, the cost was light The total expenses of the Town Commissioners in 1820 for rents, fire brigade, paving, cleansing, watching and lighting were £3,840 2s. 8d., while for 1873 the outlay of the Corporation in making improvements and maintaining efficient sanitary and police regulations amounted to £104,282 10s. 7d.
Some of the signboards were rather grotesque. In Ann Street we had "A Bird in the Hand is Worth Two in the Bush;" in Corn Market there were "The Fruit Girl," "The Mail Coach Passing Through Dromore Square," where the proprietor (Maxwell Halliday) came from, and "The Turk's Head." In Donegall street, "The Saddle Horse and Groom;" in Long Lane, "The Monkey Shaving the Goat;" in Legg's Lane, "Roy's Race on the Maze between Sharper and Swindler" (Roy was a retired jockey, and this race was considered one of his great triumphs) ; in High Street we had "The Black Bear" and "The Spinning Wheel." Some dealers had no sign-boards, but hung out specimens of the goods they had for sale. Tinware, earthenware, and cast metal goods were exposed upon the sidepath in Ann Street, and at a shop door next to where Grattan & Company are now placed (and where I often invested in balls and marbles) a turf, a piece of coal, and a scrubber indicated a very general store of small wares.
The narrow footways were not only irregular but greatly obstructed by water and milk-carriers, bakers' and butchers' baskets, bagmen with coals on their backs, sedan chairs, and wheelbarrows. I recollect a barber's pole that stood out at the house next to St. George's Church, and was a great obstruction to tall people. A crowd was usually gathered about it on Sundays, and in the window I remember reading "Easy Shaving and Hair Cut, Threepence." But the fashionable hairdressers were Bourdot in Corn Market, and O'Brien in Castle Place. Bourdot's father was a Frenchman who had been taken prisoner at Carrickfergus, when Thurot made the landing there.
Referring to the public offices, I have already mentioned how the Ballast Office and the Custom House were situated on opposite sides of the coal quay The Northern Bank had its office in Donegall Place. The Commercial Bank was in Waring Street, and the Belfast Bank in Calendar Street. The Belfast Bank at this time issued notes for a guinea, a guinea and a half, and two guineas. These were afterward withdrawn, and notes

page 19

for 25 and 35 shillings were issued. The silver money was also more inconvenient than at present. We had tenpenny and five-penny silver pieces, and when the British shilling was introduced its value here was thirteen-pence. The Post Office, as before referred to, was in Church Street, at Mr. Whinnery's private house. The Stamp Office was at Mr. O'Connor's in Arthur Street, next to the Theatre. The Comptroller of Customs was Sir Stephen May, and Mr. Thomas Stewart, of the Castle, was Seneschal. The houses of both these gentlemen can still be pointed out. Part of Sir Stephen May's is now occupied by the Messrs. Anderson and M'Auley, but at the time I speak of the frontage to Donegall Place was a garden wall. Mr. Stewart's was just opposite; his garden wall reached along Donegall Place from Castle Place and down Castle Lane, with large fruit trees hanging over the wall. All the houses in Donegall Place, with the exception of the bank and the Nelson Club, were private residences. Arthur Street was also entirely composed of dwelling-houses, which were only second in point of fashion to those in Donegall Place. There were three shops in the premises now called the Bank Buildings. They were kept by Redfern, the saddler; Farrel, the seedsman ; and M'Clean, the hardware merchant. Subsequently the Northern Bank took the whole building, and gave it its present name. It was in front of these three shops, or rather a little nearer to Mr. Stewart's gate, that the last execution in the streets was witnessed. Two men had attempted the destruction of a manufacturer's premises in Peter's Hill, and I remember distinctly seeing the helmets and swords of the dragoons as their horses closed up the thoroughfare between High Street and Castle Place while the two men were hanged.
There have been great changes in our local trades in fifty years. While some have increased, others have diminished. The cotton spinning has not held its relative position, while coopering and tanning have almost disappeared. High Street was naturally the best business street, but its shops were very different from the elegant establishments of to-day. Instead of a whole story of plate glass reaching almost to the ground, we had low fronts and small windows of little panes that were cleaned perhaps once a month, and protected, or rather encumbered, with strong iron railings on the outside. The leading Emporium of fashion for the ladies was Miss M'Elroy's little shop in Castle Place, next to the Donegall Arms. The fashions have altered in fifty years almost as much as the town. Gentlemen wore high hats (much higher than at present), yellow topped boots, and buckskin breeches. These inexpressibles cost two guineas, but a man in Hercules Place made a cheaper sort (of sheepskin) at 7s. 7d., or a seven thirteen-piece, as they called it, being the third of a guinea.

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These were called crackers, because they expanded when wet, but when drying they cracked and shivelled up to more than a skin fit. A buff vest, a swallow-tailed coat, with bright buttons, a frilled shirt, with ruffled cuffs, and a large gold seal hanging from the fob, completed the costume of a dandy. I cannot describe the ladies' dress with any minuteness, but its tone seemed to be more severe and forbidding than later styles. The coal scuttle bonnet kept the gentlemen at a respectful distance from their faces, while in fine weather they might admire their slender waists, and sandal shoes with ankle ties, but in wet and wintry weather the ladies took their airing in sedan chairs or muffled up and mounted on pattens. The sedan chairs were kept in entries off High Street, and the measured tramp of the bearers could be heard going to and from the theatre, evening parties, or the church on Sundays. The ladies' pattens were heard even more distinctly, and on Sundays in winter the porch of the parish church would be lined during the time of Divine service with beautiful pattens of various sizes and colours.
Many of the old streets of the town were named from some circumstances of the immediate locality. For instance, Bank Lane was called at one time the Back of the River, on account of the river running down one side of it, through Mr. Napier's brewery and under the Bank Buildings, into Castle Place. When the bank was established there it was called Bank Lane ; now I believe it is called Bank Street. Hercules Street was called Hercules Lane, and North Street, as some of the old leases show, was called Goose Lane. This portion of the town is now metamorphosed into the Royal Avenue.
Barrack Street got its name on account of the barracks being placed there. Mill Street from the old Manor Mill, which has only been lately removed. It was driven by water power, but of late years this power has almost disappeared.
Fountain Lane or Street, where those who had no pipe water in their houses procured a supply either themselves or by means of the water-carriers, who flourished before the opening of the Cromac Springs, when barrels on donkey carts took up the trade. The Fountain 2, itself was supplied through wooden pipes from Monday's well in Sandy Row. The only pipe water in the town came from the old Circular Basin near Bankmore.
Pound Road was the approach to the Pound through Cripple Row from the Falls, and was an early populated district. The Pound and Dog Kennel were situated on the north side of Barrack Street, and its junction with our Pound Street and Durham Street.

1. The fountain was on the west side of Fountain Street, nearly opposite Fountain Lane.
2. Now Bankmore Street, known previously as Basin Loading

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It is flow occupied by houses, and by that portion of Durham Street which has been continued up to Divis Street. You were supposed to be on the Dublin Road when you turned Out of Barrack Street into what is now called Durham Street. The Pound was lower than the road, and was enclosed by a stone wall, on which all the idlers of the neighbourhood used to rest. A clear stream of water ran through the Pound, and the keeper was strictly bound to preserve it carefully for the use of the cattle that might be committed to his charge. This stream ran through gardens and orchards until it joined the Blackwater River, and it is even now known as the Pound Burn. I remember pulling gooseberries in one of these gardens; it was just where the Messrs Hinds' mill now stands. There was a cotton mill in Millfield, and tobacco pipes were made in Pipe Lane. 1
The Corn Market tells the story of its own name, as do also Chapel Lane, Winecellar Entry, and Sugarhouse Entry. Church Lane refers to an older church on the site of St George's. Castle Market, Castle Lane, Castle Place, and Castle Street, took their names from the adjacent castle, the last portion of which I saw removed. Many of the other streets will be found to be named after the Donegall family and their friends, such as Verner Street, May Street, Donegall Street, and Chichester Street, or from others of the old leading families.
The improvements of the town have removed many of the old thoroughfares, for example-Mary Street, Quay Lane, Store Lane, Weigh-house Lane, Forest Lane, Back Lane, Mitchell's Entry, and Bluebell Entry, were all swept away by the formation of Victoria Street and Albert Square. Croarken's Pad and the Back Gardens of Smithfield, where the unwashed assembled for all kinds of amusement, have been covered by Miss Torrens' buildings; and quite recently Legg's Lane, Caddel's Entry, and Hercules Street have made way for Lombard Street and the Royal Avenue.
In like manner the people of the town have changed. The old familiar faces have slipped gradually away, and their places have been filled up by strangers four times over.
I could point out to you many portions of the old town, and describe in some imperfect way the alterations that have since occurred; but I can only point to a very few of those who were conspicuous fifty years ago.

1. Now Winetavern Street.
2. Known as Torrens' Market, off Hercules Street. Taken down when forming Royal Avenue.

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May, 1880

In describing Belfast in the first part of this pamphlet, my intention was, to show its extent and position in the early portion of the present century - without special reference to its inhabitants. Many of these I now intend to name as occupying important positions, others on account of their business peculiarities, with a few eccentric personages, all forming a portion of a growing population of some thirty or forty thousand people.
The principal approaches to the town were, by the Long Bridge from the County of Down, the Shore Road, the Shankhill Road, the Falls and Malone Roads, on the Antrim side.
I will commence as formerly by referring to the old Long Bridge, which was removed by Mr. Ritchie, who built the present one on its site. It was properly styled the Long Bridge, as its numerous arches extended for a considerable distance over the low ground on the County Down side, the river being broad and shallow. The new one (the Queen's Bridge) has contracted the space, and the river has been deepened. Facing the river, at the corner of Ann Street, was the dwelling-house - only lately rebuilt - of Mr. Waterson, the solicitor. In the next lived Mr. Shea, the barrack-master, and in that adjoining, Mr. Ekenhead, who carried on an extensive rope-making concern 1. Captain Skinner occupied the large house between the old Custom House and Marlborough Street. The two docks at the end of High Street and Waring Street were two of the greatest nuisances possible to conceive - as the main sewers of these two streets discharged into them - and when the tide was out especially in summer, they were unbearable. These Docks were called quays. We had Hanover Quay, Chichester Quay, Merchants' Quay, Donegall Quay, Custom-house Quay, and the Town Dock, at the foot of High Street, was called the Coal Quay. The coal merchants were few, and their trade confined to those who drew the coal to their customers. As they had no coal yards, the vessels were obliged to wait until discharged in proportion to the demand.

1. His sister, Mrs Dummet, built and endowed the Ekenhead Presbyterian church in North Queen Street, to his memory.

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Turf, or dried peat, was in great requisition. It was sold in long thin bags, like a sailor's wallet, which were re-filled and sold until the regular load was all disposed of.
The principal carters of the day were Kerr, Maxwell, Stewart, Johnston, and Massey. Billy Massey was a remarkably large man, weighing upwards of twenty stone, but in spite of this, was active and assiduous in his business. It occasionally happened that the coal carts were pressed into the service of the military to carry the baggage when a regiment took the road for a change of station, and at such times the bagmen had to supply the people of the town with coal.
When a wedding took place in the coal fraternity, which occasionally happened, the horses were taken Out of the carts, stripped of their harness, and ridden in procession through the principal streets, both they and their riders being decorated with white favours.
Quay Lane was a narrow passage between High Street and Waring Street, at the head of the docks. It had small houses on one side - the abodes of the retailers of salt herrings. In the emigration season whole families of country people wandered about these lanes and docks, filling the lodging-houses about Princes Street for several days, until their chosen vessel was ready to sail. Lighters were engaged to carry them and their ponderous luggage, with three months' supply of provisions and cooking utensils, down the Lough to the emigrant ship. The shipping offices would be covered with large posters announcing the day that such and such vessel intended sailing for New York, Philadelphia, Quebec, or Montreal, "all fast sailers, coppered and copper fastened, and carrying full complement of fresh water." A sketch of a ship in full sail, on a calm sea, with her name in large letters, would appear on each bill, signed by such well known names as Martin, Dunn, Shaw, Grainger, or Folingsby.
The old ballast office, long connected with the name of Getty, with its little flag-staff, at the extremity of the peninsula between the two old docks 1, was a small but important looking place. It has been transferred, on account of the harbour improvements, to the present splendid building in Corporation Square, called the Harbour Office. A large lamp was erected by the Gaslight Company in the middle of High Street, shedding its light on the coal vessels and on the houses on either side of the street. Weigh-house Lane and Forest Lane were off the south side of High Street. The former contained large grain stores, occupied principally by Mr. Seeds, the grain merchant, while the latter had small houses on both sides, continuing to

1. Present custom-house built on the site in 1857.

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Ann Street. These were occupied by hucksters, hawkers, tinkers, coopers, heather broom makers, and freestone sellers. At the comer of Forest Lane, in High Street, was Billy Hutton's shop, filled with specimens of every description of antiquated hardware, fishing tackle, and nautical instruments. He had anything from a needle to a crowbar, or from the finest fishing-hook to a harpoon, and his flies were considered by the angling sportsmen of that day to be the best. On the opposite side of the street were some good shops and dwelling-houses, the finest of which belonged to Mr. Barnett, who must have been the treasurer of some place of worship, for I fancy I see him yet counting the money on his own hall table, and complaining of the number of coppers (not negotiable) that the congregation would give on Sunday.
The intermediate space between the rere of the houses in Forest Lane and the rere of those in Church Lane was occupied by the church-yard 1, studded with very ancient grave stones. The two corner houses of Church Lane next High Street were occupied, one by Donnelly, the publican-with whom the recruiting parties were accustomed to halt for refreshments-and the other by Kelso, the hosier. I believe the latter is a hosiery at the present time.
The principal shops were in High Street and Castle Place, and those of the "doctors" (as they were called) were the most conspicuous, especially at night, as the large bottles of different colours in the windows, with a candle or oil lamp behind them, shed their coloured lights on the street. On one side were Drs. Bryson, Marshall, Montgomery, Arrott, and Buchanan, while on the other we had Drs. Quin, Moore, and Murray, afterwards Sir James Murray. These all lived above their shops, and were ready to prescribe or compound when called on.
York Street, or the Shore Road, was most frequented. It was kept in good order, being the main road to the county town of Carrickfergus.
The horse fair, on the 12th of August and 12th of November, held in York Street, were both noisy and exciting. All the juveniles prepared their whips for the fair, and the contest was to see which could crack their whips the loudest. The leading horse dealers were Denis Smith and James Watson, and the veterinary surgeons were Wimbush and Reilly. Denis Smith came to Belfast from Ballynahinch, where he had contracts for supplying the cavalry regiments with horses.
The Shankhill Road, to the graveyard, was irregular in buildings, but densely populated from North Street to Bower's Hill. The public baths here were for a long time monopolized by Israel Milliken, who attended his customers personally, and administered to each one a good glass of punch after the bath - the charge for

1. This church-yard was in connexion with the Parish Church which was
taken down in 1774. The present St. George's church was built on the same site in 1812

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all being two shillings. When one of his customers died he attended the funeral, and in fact he and his pony-gig appeared as necessary appendages at almost every funeral procession of the time.
M'Neice's ball court was in close proximity to the baths, the ball players frequenting the latter, and patronising them largely. Mentioning ball playing, I may add that ball and racket playing were games as popular then as football and cricket are at present. Besides the ball court at Peter's Hill, we had Mrs. Davis's in Smithield, Pollard's in Berry Street, and Lennon's in Cromac Street, where well-contested matches might have been witnessed every fine evening. Billy Pollard's court was opposite Charlemont Street, and whether it was handball or racket his young patrons were playing, he was in the habit of saying as he took the sixpence for each game, "All they wanted was a little more practice."
Such amusement as badger baiting and duck hunting were frequently indulged in. The former, under Jamie Quigley's management, was an amusement that distinguished the best terrier dogs-the latter was the means of improving the breed of water spaniels, of which Bob Taylor, of the Butter Market, was supposed to have the finest. Wild fowl shooting in winter was another favourite recreation. Several parties had barrels sunk on the Holywood banks for the purpose. These barrels had to be bailed out between tides, as the birds sought after-such as widgeon, wild ducks and barnacle-avoided the shooting cots on clear nights. The steamers, railways, and increased shipping have almost banished them from our lough. Hunting was then, as now, a favourite sport. The trysting places were principally in the neighbourhood of Suffolk, on the Falls Road; but the annual grand meeting for the nobility and gentry was held at the Marquis's Lodge at Fisherwick. On these occasions Farrell's hotel and stables at Doagh would, for several days, be fully occupied with men and horses.
Mr. Sinclair's hounds were kept for some time at the rere of his house in Donegall Place, where he also kept his hawks and falcons. When the hounds were taken out for exercise in the morning, they made themselves heard in the streets through which they passed, and these thoroughfares were soon cleared of all other animals of the same species. The Falls Road, from the junction with Barrack Street and Mill Street, was not so much frequented as some of the other approaches to the town nevertheless M'Kenzie's Belfast Distillery, Alexander's Flour Mills, and Stevenson's Cotton Mill at Springfield, supported a working population in that district.
The new Lisburn Road was finished in 1821, and at the junction of the old and new roads a wooden shed was erected for collecting

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the tolls. The first collector was Mr. Chapman, who was succeeded by W. Mateer 1, until the turnpikes-through the assistance of Arthur Hill Thornton and others -were entirely abolished. The Mall ditch was the only way into town from Sandy Row, unless that leading round either by Paper Mill Lane or Barrack Street, Bankmore House, near the Blackstaff river, and outside the borough boundary, was occupied by Mr. Gaussen, an extensive grain merchant, and was the property of Mr. M'Cleery, who was engineer and part owner of the Lagan Navigation Canal. He assisted in obtaining from the south side of the town a supply of water which was very small compared with the present supply from the north side.
The paper mill on the Black Staff River and all the land adjoining was the property of the Joy family, and in the winter much of it was covered with water. The townparks and lands were in the possession of families bearing such familiar names as Dunbar, Holmes, Thompson, Pinkerton, Lyons, Brown, Greg, M'Clean, Hyndrnan, Joy, and May; hence we have Dunbar's Dock, Holmes's Dock, Thompson's Bank, Pinkerton's Row, Lyons's Lodge, Brown's Square, Greg's Plains, M'Clean's Fields. Joy's Darn, May's Ground, and Hyndman's Grove, or Eglantine House, the residence of the late Councillor M'Donnell, near St. Thomas's Church. Some well known localities could boast of the following names - Clabber Loaning, Blackstaff Loaning, and Buttermilk Loaning, Tea Lane, 2, and Love Lane, Cripple Row and Club Row, Mullen's Corner and Gooseberry Corner, Croarken's Pad, and Pepper Hill Steps 3.
A favourite walk was from the Linen Hall by the dam side and May's Bank to the Long Bridge, with water nearly all the way. The weir at the mill, prevented the water getting down to the Lagan, and the arches 4 that still exist allowed it to fill up the low ground now occupied by Joy Street. This storage water kept the large wheel of the paper mill in motion during dry seasons.
The Cromac Spa was a little stream of water that ran from the side of May's bank into the river opposite where the coals are now delivered into the Gas Works. From the junction of the Blackstaff the Lagan bank had a sloping stoned beach next the river, whilst the other side inclined more to the perpendicular, with a grassy swamp all round.
The walk on the bank from Cromac Bridge round to the

1. Mr. M'Steer's old toll house is still standing.
2. Now Rowland Street,
3. Pepper Hill Steps demolished along with a large portion of Carrick Hill in February, 1894
4. see note 6 page 9.

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long bridge was broad enough for two people, but when two couples met there, they were obliged to pass in Indian file. A short distance from the Long Bridge there was an arch that allowed the tide to flow into May's Dock, and lower down a second arch or bridge at Church Lane allowing the water to flow Into the Poultry Square end of the Dock, which is now filled up, and the ground about it planted with trees 1. These docks were generally filled with logs of timber, and the timber merchants in Ann Street and Poultry Square had slips into them for landing it. The spring tides frequently overflowed these docks, and flooded the streets and lanes in the neighbourhood. Telfair's Entry would be inundated to the depth of several feet, and, as it contained, even until lately, a dense population, the methods of communication from house to house at such times would he most amusing. The people in the lower apartments had to fraternize with those of the upper, however they may have disagreed at other times. Boats, planks, and window-shutters were used by the juveniles. Others gathered coppers for carrying on their backs from one house to another those having business in the entry. Carters had their conveyances freighted against their will when passing through a flooded locality. Before the railways were established, carting goods from Belfast to the country towns, even to the Metropolis, was quite an institution. We had carmen's inns, or yards, as they were called, in every district of the town, where the shopkeepers sent their country parcels to be taken charge of by the carriers.
Ballymacarrett, on the County Down side, with its paved roads extending a considerable distance from town, was always exempt from tolls or turnpike trusts. Its great industries were carried on in Coates' and Young's Foundry Works, Ekenhead's Rope Works, Shannon's Vitriol Works. Batt's Salt Works, M'Cullough's Lime Works, and Ben. Edwards' large bottle house was in full work.
The Harbour improvements have kept pace with the trade and growth of the town. For some time Mr. Langtry's large steamer, The Chieftain, sailed for Liverpool every Sunday. Immense crowds were in the habit of gathering to see her leave. Farewells were often deferred to the last moment by the passengers and their friend; and more than once it occurred that parties were taken away quite unintentionally, dressed in their "Sunday best." The Fingal steamer made two trips in the week to Greenock and Glasgow, when the female passengers on the deck smuggled large quantities of soap to Scotland - the duty at this time being a matter of some importance.
The Belfast people always preferred the County Down side of

1. See note at page 9.

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the Lough for health and retirement. Many of our merchants and professional men have breathed their last in the neighborhood of Holywood. The soil being dry and protected from the cast winds, gave it the character of being a salubrious and sheltered retreat In the times I speak of, the annual regatta at Holywood was very popular. Rows of refreshment tents would be erected all along the shore between Holywood and Cultra.
The competitors in either rowing or sailing were principally members of local families, such as the May's, Kennedy's, the Langtry's, and the Macartney's. In some of the rowing matches, however, the fishermen and their wives on both sides of the Lough competed vigorously for the honour of their respective counties. These amusements continued for several days in midsummer.
The population of Belfast then (1823) numbering some forty thousand was of a very mixed character, and as the females preponderated - as I have shewn by the appendix to my first paper on this subject - I suppose they still have the majority -their labour was cheap and more varied before the flax spinning mills were established. At that time common labourers' wages were seven shillings a week, while tradesmen and skilled labourers were paid in proportion. The pay of bricklayers and carpenters was about sixteen shillings; their hours of labour being longer than at present. The pay of a foreman, or one that had charge of some particular branch of the trade, was sometimes eighteen or twenty shillings. The generality of the workmen and their families appeared as comfortable then as they do now at a time when they are receiving double the pay.
Smithfield was then a busy scene on fair and market days. It was an open square with a large shed in the centre for the sale of hides and skins, with a strong railing all round, leaving next the hoses the breadth of a street as it is at present. Most of these dwellings were occupied by publicans. Many people resorted to Smithfield on Friday evenings to witness the different spectacles and amusements provided by the grinning clowns at the show booths, and the recruiting parties playing the "British Grenadiers" with fife and drum. On special days the entire military band escorted the party. The hum of voices, the bargaining for knackers' horses, the shouting of the cheap jacks and auctioneers, all combined to enliven the scene; whilst Jack Jeffers, the auctioneer, could have collected a crowd in a very few minutes by his sonorous bawling, even if it were only an old horse in dispute, or a seizure of household furniture in hand.
We had an interesting sight occasionally in Smithfield, when Mr Bradshaw, of Milecross, drove tandem, in his home-made

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chariot 1, through the fruit stalls and spread out earthenware, to the hide market.
On ordinary days Smithfield was a dull enough looking place; the local juveniles, the dogs, the fowl, and the lumber of all kinds kept possession inside the railings.
Shanks, the nail-maker, who lived on the east side of the square, kept a number of degenerate sporting dogs that fed themselves about the hide market. In Shanks's shop window one of the lower panes of glass was broken, and the dogs used to leap out and in, carrying with them whatever they could not devour on the street. The other markets were fully occupied on Friday, the market day. In May's market, fowl, eggs and fresh butter would be sold at prices that our present house-keepers might envy, eggs being then 4d. per dozen, fowl from 1/6 to 2/- the pair, and fresh butter 10d. per pound.
The early potatoes were cultivated principally by Malone farmers, and retailed from their carts in Montgomery's and Tucker's markets 2. The fish market was well supplied from Ardglass, Groomsport, and Carrickfergus, and the most extensive dealers were Dugan, M'Donnell, and Meenan. The best fruit and vegetables were sold by Kitty Curran, her establishment being next the fish market in William Street South, whilst Coyle's, Smith's, and Dowdall's fruit and vegetable shops were thriving in Castle lane and Hammond's Court.
The pork and wholesale butter markets were also very extensive. In Tomb Street the weighing market was so much in requisition, that on a winter's morning all the streets approaching it would be blocked with carts loaded with dead pigs and firkins of butter.
Ballads were largely invested in by the country people on fair and market days. These compositions were sung or bawled out in every thoroughfare, and any important news or extraordinary event, either foreign, local, or political, was communicated to the whole country in that way. It was the custom fifty years ago for the newspapers to be carried about and left at the houses and offices for an hour's reading on payment of one penny. M'Keown, who sometimes carried them, although a man of no education, had the gift of rhyming, and he could improvise four lines or so caricaturing any person in a style that was most amusing. He had a decided squint, and would keep scanning the person from head to foot while he composed the verses. Whilst we had our street celebrities, we had, in addition, a number of distinguished eccentric characters. William Dalway would distribute cakes and

1. It had a fire inside, and the smoke issued through a chimney on the top of the vehicle, and was drawn by two oxen
2. The entrance to Tucker's Market was by Castle Lane, and was also known as Weigh Bridge Market.

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oranges, whilst "Dr." M'Donald cleared the footway with his stick. Count Mahogany and P. M'Brennan attracted attention at all times. The former was a most foppishly dressed cabinetmaker, who wrought only three days in the week, and the latter kept a public house in Caddel's Entry. He was extremely peculiar in his habits, so much so that if he had only to go to Mr. Stewart's, in Legg's Lane-the next entry-he must dress in his best for the occasion, from shining castor hat to polished top boots; while, full of self complacency, he must salute every person he met.
It was about this time that a duel came off between Lawless and Greg, on the very ground now occupied by the Borough Cemetery. Mr. Sinclair seconded Mr. Lawless. He placed Mr. Greg with his back near a hay cock, and after the first and only exchange of shots took place, Lawless put up his eyeglass to see if his antagonist were on his feet. Mr. Greg was disposed to try a second shot, although he had not the advantage of being a small man like his opponent.
Sir Robert Peel's County Police Force, or Royal Irish, as they are now deservedly called, were raised in this district under the charge of Major D'Arcy, who lived in the middle house of M'Clean's Buildings, and had his recruits drilled and paraded in the lane behind the house. Sergeant Lindsay, who afterwards became our chief day constable, was one of his first batch of men. The old men who previously formed the night watch protected the houses and stores as best they could from the depredations of burglars. They called the hours, and the kind of weather, and rapped up those who had to rise early on special business when instructed to do so. Warren, one of our two day constables, was shot when about to execute a decree near the Shankhill Road.
Whilst the Donegal family lived at Ormeau, a very extensive and expensive establishment was maintained there, which tended to make Belfast prosperous in trade. Game, such as hares and pheasants, frequented the plains from the preserves at Ormeau, and the gamekeepers - Adams and Sims - had to look sharply after them, it being so convenient to the town, hares being frequently taken near the Donegall Pass, and in the grounds now occupied by our Gas Works. Sims lived in the Deer Park, where the late Marquis has built a Castle, near the Cave Hill. The heron cranes were protected and encouraged to build their nests at Ormeau. The crane was conspicuous on the crest of the Donegal family, and the beautiful pillars which some will remember at the principal entrance, were topped with a gilt coronet and a crane about to swallow a struggling eel. A racing stud was kept at Ormeau, producing an occasional winner at the annual meeting on the Maze course. The Maze races in July were looked forward to with considerable interest. For weeks

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previous to the meeting, preparations were made for the occasion. Streets of tents were erected for refreshments, and many spent the Sunday before and the Sunday after the racing week amongst the brackens that covered the rising ground behind the tents. Lord Downshire, the Marquis of Donegal, Messrs. Joyce, Martin, Maxwell, Filgate, Fivy, Ferguson, and Commodore Watson, were among the local supporters of the turf. One of the favourite jockeys was Conlan; but the principal races were ridden by gentlemen riders, when four mile heats prolonged the excitement.
Our well-known street criers were at that time a little different from the present. The tape sellers, for instance, were as persevering in pushing their trade as the evening newspaper vendors are at present, with their chorus of "Broad, black, or white, twilled or plain, penny tape, at a halfpenny a yard." Then the "Ballinderry onions at a penny a pound" were called through the streets and lanes of the town for several months of the year. We had criers of "Chelsea buns-all hot," and "Hot mutton pies at a penny a piece- all hot." Under reservation it may be said the pies might be hot, but the mutton was - doubtful. After Ben Grub and Jemmy Foy, one of the best known street celebrities of the day, was Tantra Barbus. He used to swim across the river at the Long Bridge for the consideration of a copper-and his great difficulty was to find some trustworthy individual among the passers by who would take charge of his money and clothes for him, in order to meet him with these at the other side. Failing such assistance, he, of course, swam all the way back again the bridge being out of question.
Certain articles then much in use, and most suitable for our cold, wet climate, were pattens. They kept the feet warm and dry, and the ladies displayed great taste in their style and make. As a proof that they were conducive to good health and long life I may mention that among their patrons- the Misses M'Kedy of York Street; the Misses Patterson, of Castle Street; the Miss Montgomerys, of Wellington Place; and many more ladies whom I remember, lived to an age far above the prescribed limit.
In winter the sedan chairs were in frequent use. Ladies and gentlemen found their way in sedan chairs to public meetings and evening parties, with a lamp suspended from the front portion of the carrier's pole. Invalids took their airing in them in preference to a horse conveyance.
Large private carriages were only seen out on special occasions. I remember, in Donegall Place, seeing one which had not been moved for more than twenty years. The wheels were cogged up, and the iron rusty, but the painting and trimming were in wonderful preservation. The conveyance cost 300 guineas at the beginning of the present century -and at present, I believe the

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body of the same carriage is to be seen at Mr. M Connell's farm at Castlereagh 1. Most of the hotel keepers kept chaises or hired them for the accommodation of their visitor. Two outside cars were kept by a man called Monaghan Jack in William Street, and subsequently two more were kept by Johnny Webb in Montgomery Street. He had livery suitable for every occasion, and his turn out was conspicuous for daintiness.
The daily coaches to and from the country towns were numerous, and I may mention the principal ones - Patterson's Portaferry coach started from Tom Campbell's hotel in Ann Street; the Ballynahinch and Downpatrick from Anderson's in Great Edward Street, and Byers's Armagh coach from Magee's in High street.
John Grogan had his Londonderry mail coach office in High Street; the Lisburn and Banbridge coaches of Pelan and Livingston ran from Arthur Square, and the last of the night mail coaches - before the railway to Dublin was completed started from the Plough Hotel in Corn Market 2.
The persons attending the arrival of the Dublin coaches were a class very difficult to manage, until Mr. Rea, who succeeded Mr. Woods as agent for the Royal Mail, improved matters in that respect. One man, in particular, called Boney - whether that was his real name I never heard-would have accosted you in a language not very Parliamentary, if you had offered him less than a shilling for taking your rug or top coat, and escorting you across the street to the Donegal Arms Hotel. He was seldom absent from the Theatre after the arrival of the coach, and if a passenger by the coach, or any other person who had slighted him in any way, happened to be there, he would refresh his memory by calling out in the choicest diction, all such a persons omissions and commissions to a delighted and highly appreciative audience. On the northern roads, Miskelly's coaches were a great institution. Miskelly's office, the place at which the coaches arrived, and from which they started, was half hotel and half public house. It was situated at the corner of North Street and Rosemary Street. With the exception of the Dublin and Derry mails, all the other coaches and vans started from public houses. As an undertaker, Dan Miskelly's equipments were very extensive, each hearse being decorated with large black and white plumes, with a carved death's head and cross bones on each side above the words Tempus fugit.
Hotels were much more frequented by the local population at this time than at present. Especially was this the case at those

1. No remnants of it now exist.
2. Grattan & Co.'s premises are built on the site.

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where good dinners and suppers were prepared, and where the building itself was not in a prominent situation; for instance, Mrs. Stewart's, in Crown Entry, Mrs. M'Alister's, in Graham's Entry, and Sheals's, in Wilson's Court, were favourite places for our local epicures to meet.
Kilpatrick's carmen's inn, in Arthur Street, was well known by the carters of Armagh, Derry, and Tyrone, before the railways were introduced. It was originally a meat market, and the site of the Evening Telegraph offices now occupy a portion of the ground.1
Special places of refreshment in the suburbs were also well known, such as Mrs Barkley's 2, on the Shore Road, Rolly's in Holywood, and Clawson's in Newtownbreda, at which institutions tea and slim cake were provided to perfection. In town, again, the more delicate refreshments were to be had in High Street, at the Misses Duplex's and Mrs. Ogston's, 3 or at Mrs. Linden's in Corn Market. Some shops were conspicuous from the nature of the business. The establishment immediately adjoining Grattan and Co.'s Medical Hall was kept by a certain Mrs. M'Callum, who had ever a kind word for all the children in the neighbourhood. There was a step down from the street to the earthen floor of her shop - and an ordinary sized person could have reached down a bundle of sawdust balls, skeleton dolls, or tin whistles, from the ceiling. Besides toys, her shop contained a variety of common household requirement - such as coal, turf, pot sticks, pot lids, wooden dishes, earthenware and tinder boxes - the latter a commodity now unknown and superseded by lucifer matches. Barber's shops were most frequented on Sundays, and in some of them drink was supplied to the customers. Mary Street could boast of a female barber who did a good business. On Sundays, too, the apothecaries and confectioners, as well as the fruiterers, had their places of business open. The principal clothes shops or warehouses in High Street were M'Clean's, Smith's, Reid's, Day and Bottomley's. Weir's and Halliday's, were wholesale woollen warehouses in other parts of the town. Hardy's British Woollen Hall 4 was the first place which exhibited any great improvement in the matter of shop fronts, and was very attractive and much admired. Then followed Maclurcan's, and adjoining it was Lennon's with the "Golden Wool Pack."
What Arthur's seat is to Edinburgh, so is the Cave Hill to Belfast, both in proximity to the town, and as commanding an

1. Now in the occupation of Mr. Hugh Bell.
2. Was better known as "Peggy Barkley's" situated at corner of Buttermilk Loaning (now Skegoniel Avenue) and Shore Road.
3. Opposite Bridge Street
4. Next door to Ogston's.

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extensive view of land and water. (On the evening of the Prince of Wales's wedding day in 1863, a hundred tar barrels were carried to the top of the hill, and when lighted, the effect, even in the streets of Holywood, was very great). White duck trousers appeared to be indispensable for the Cave Hill on Easter Monday. The principal tailors were Watt, Marshall, Talbot, Henry, Robb, and Tim Leeson, from Dublin. In Galway's cloth shop in Bridge street, M'Neight or Billy Nocher might be seen measuring a person with a long tape - like piece of paper, nipping it in different places with a pair of scissors. This operation succeeded the choice by the customer of the cloth. Merchant tailors were then unknown in Belfast. The shops in Castle Place and Corn Market began to improve; but Mr. Galway and the Misses Officer in Bridge Street, at the Belfast New's-Letter Office 1, retained the old bow windows with the small panes for a longer period than any of their townspeople.
In Adam M'Clean's shop, near the corner of Bridge Street, I stood by whilst the great-grandfather of the present Marquis of Downshire purchased from Mr. M'Clean the material for making some buff vests, which he himself took to the carriage on the street.
The jewellers and watch-makers who resided on the south side of High Street were represented by Wallace, Gardner, Neill, Gray, and Lee. The hardware shops did not then attempt to deal in such precious metals.
Some of our principal merchants, traders, bankers, and professional men are at this point worthy of remark.
In the timber trade the principal firms were Greg, Batt, Corbett, and M'Clean, and afterwards Murphy, Low, Lewis, and Hayes. In the cotton spinning we had Lepper, Campbell, Mulholland, Stephenson, and M'Cracken. In the tanning trade, M'Cammom, Barnett, Pentland, Law, Hudson, Herdman, Johnston, and many others. The provision trade was represented by Wilson, M'Calpin, Wallace, Steen, Gillis, Bigger, M'Caw, M'Clarnon, Moreland, and Battersby; and these were succeeded by such well-known names as Cordukes, Shaw, Coey, and Sinclair.
The provision trade acted favourably on the coopering industry, which is still an important one in Belfast in connection with brewery and distillery works; and for this the importation of staves has always been considerable. We had three breweries, the names and situations of which were - Kane's in North Street, Dobbin's in Smithfield, and Napier's, afterwards Magill's, in Bank Lane. I remember one cooper called Billy Dunlop, who was quite a character in his way. He was a very tall man, with an exceedingly large nose. He lived in Cole's Alley, and to get in and out of his own house he found it necessary to stoop. His tools he always

1. Opposite Arnott & Co's.

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carried about with him, and he valued the friendship of his customers quite as much as their money-in short, he was what might be called a family cooper, who would mend a tub, make a bucket water-tight, repair a meal barrel which was always out of repair, and supply all the children with hoops.
The booksellers and stationers held a prominent position-Hodgson, M'Comb, Mullan, Harrison, and Lamont in High Street, and Jellet and Phillips in Bridge Street. The wholesale stationers were Simms & M'Intyre in Donegall Street, Archer, in Castle Place, Ward-grandfather to the present Mr. Ward, of Marcus Ward & Co.'s, the great bookbinding establishment now so universally known. Mrs Lamont's being next to Bullick's School, her window at Christmas time displayed large illuminated sheets, headed with scripture pieces, such as the Nativity, Noah's Ark, or Daniel in the Lion's Den, whilst the small side pictures referred to the subject of the large heading. In the middle the boys wrote their Christmas pieces.
The linen trade was always well represented. The merchants who then occupied what was called the White Linen Hall were - Stewart, Currell, Gray, Saddler, Fenton, Moore, Annesley, Nelson, Cunningham, and Ferguson.
Tallow chandling was carried on very extensively before gas superceded candles. It was then principally in the hands of Law, Greer, Bailey, Glenfield, and Finlay, and it may be remembered that the last two names still represent the trade.1
In former days, the shopkeepers and tradespeople of Belfast lived at their own places of business, and were always easily found. A failure then was a rare phenomenon, and when it did take place, the amount seldom reached four figures. It was at that time an honour to be known as a Belfast merchant, without being called a "merchant prince."
Until the British shilling and the gold sovereign got freely into circulation there was some confusion in calculating the different coins. The withdrawal of the old spade guinea - value for £1 2s. 9d. and the introduction of the 25s., 30s., and 35s. notes was an improvement; but in the year 1830 these Belfast notes were barely negotiable south of Newry or Dundalk. In Meath or Louth the landlords would have refused them in payment of rent, and the farmers for cattle or farm produce. This state of affairs has, of course, undergone considerable change since the Belfast banks have established branches in the principal towns of these counties.
The Belfast Bank was represented by the Messrs. Batt, Houston, Gordon, Crawford, Luke, Hughes, Mitchell, and Thompson, and

1. Finlay only now remains.

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these have since all disappeared. In the Northern Bank we had Messrs. Orr, M'Neill, M'Cance, Sloan, Bristow, and Montgomery - the two latter names are still familiar in connection with the establishment. We must not omit the names of two well-known and important members of the staff in these banks - Mr. Gillis, of the Northern, and Mr. Coleman, of the Belfast Bank. Mr. Kilbee, in Skipper Street, the notary public, had the unpaid bills to protest.
Some ten years later two more banks issued their prospectuses - the Ulster and the Agricultural 1. Both these had a fair start, but the latter-which had its head-quarters in Dublin, and was spread all over the country - soon came to grief. The former, which originated in Belfast, and confined itself to the province, turned out a success and is worthy of its name.
The shareholders of the Agricultural and Commercial Bank of Ireland were invited to attend a meeting in Dublin on the 17th of April, 1837, to have laid before them a statement showing the position of affairs, as it had been discovered that the first and second installments were soon exhausted in the establishing of branch offices all over the country. The Belfast shareholders were determined to oppose the call of a third installment, and, in order to prevent a resolution being passed in opposition to their wishes, about 200 made their way to the meeting from this neighbourhood. For several days the Mail and Fair Trader coaches had their full complement of passengers leaving Belfast for Dublin, and 140 shareholders chartered a little steamer, The Belfast, from Mr. M'Tear, which carried them safely to Dublin, under the charge of young Mr. Smith, brother to our respected solicitor, Mr. G. K. Smith.2
The meeting was held in the large room in Morrison's Hotel. A Dublin Director, named O'Dwyer, was moved to the chair, a proceeding which was opposed vigorously. For two hours the noise and confusion were so great that no business could be done. Mr. Bates was the Belfast advocate, but no person could be heard on account of the noise which prevailed. Coats were torn and hats turned into peculiar shapes, until at last the contending parties were divided by a rope stretched down the centre of the room. A still greater row then ensued. Windows, tables, and chairs were broken; the large gasaliers were torn down; ladders were raised to the windows outside, and the military were called out to clear the street. The Northern shareholders kept possession of the room, appointed Mr. Pim as chairman, and passed resolutions for winding up the affairs of the company. Thanks were voted to the chairman through Mr. Gresham, who was called to the second chair. He said "that the Agricultural Bank was

1. Still standing at rere of the shops at corner of Donegall Place and Castle Street. It was formerly the residence of Sir Stephen May.
2. Now deceased.

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conceived in deceit, cradled in roguery, and was now strangled before it came to maturity." He himself was the largest share holder in Dublin. Such was the end of the Agricultural and Commercial Bank of Ireland as far as the general public were concerned. Some of the shareholders however, for many years, were called upon from time to time to pay calls before it was finally wound up.
About 1833 or 1834, two railway prospectuses were issued, one by Richard Davison for a line from Belfast to Ballymena; the other - the atmospheric - by Alexander and John Montgomery, from Belfast to Holywood 1.
When banking accommodation was not so easily obtained, we had amongst our general merchants the names of M'Clure, Wilson, Martin, Harrison, Heron, Herdman, Getty, Corbett, Greg, Batt, Langtry, Fenton, and Mulholland. Such men assisted to establish the mercantile character of our town when limited liability companies were unknown.
The control of the Customs was successively under the management of Mr. Black, Sir Stephen May, Captain Skinner, and an Englishman named Trevor. The chief officers for a long time were Fitzpatrick, Green, and Semple. One porter or messenger in particular at the Custom House was a man without arms, called Roddy M'Cluskey, and his appearance always attracted attention in the streets.
Some people again, in addition to those mentioned, held offices in connection with the affairs of the town. Mr. Ferguson was high constable, while Stephen Daniel acted as sergeant-at-mace when a Sovereign was elected, or a Member of Parliament made.
The Stamp Office was kept by Mr. O'Connor at the rear of his house next the Theatre in Arthur Street, and to see him walk out on a fine morning with his dog and gun was a sight which caused envy in the hearts of admirers of the sport.
At present several important trades and firms are continued under the same old names, such as Finlay and Glenfield in the tallow chandlery; Alexander & Co., Belfast Flour Mills; Dobbin and Co.3 as brewers; Dunville & Co., distillers; and Crawford and Co., wine merchants. Mr. Napier's brewery was in Bank Lane, and John Kane's in North Street.
The principal bakers were Johnston, Law, Crawford, Kennedy, Moffet and Gilmore, until Yeates and Birkmyre supplemented the list.4

1. This does not refer to the present successful companies which were projected several years after.
2. see note to page 35.
3. At west side of Smithfield, but the name of Dobbin in connexion with this trade has disappeared.
4. All gone.

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The Public Bakery, as well as some other places of business, are still to be found in the same localities, and under the same names-such as Linden's, in Corn Market, and Patterson's, at the corner of Bridge Street. Corner houses in some streets have been public-houses for more than half a century, although the occupants have changed several times. Well known names were - M'Gouran's, at the corner of Hercules Street and Berry Street; Wilson's, at the corner of Cromac Street; and Featherston's, at the corner of Church Lane. The corners of Church Lane and Berry Street have both been changed lately in the course of the town improvements, and Hercules Street, John Street, Boyd's Court, John's Court, M'Coubrey's Entry, Fulton's Enty, Round Entry, Law's Court, Black's Place, New Row, Bell's Lane, and Torrens' Market, with all their old unsanitary associations have disappeared.
Again, some prominent positions have been occupied in different ways, and undergone changes at different times. For instance, Pat Lynn's Hotel in Castle Place, at the corner of Legg's Lane - lately removed -was altered several times into stores, offices, and shops, the last being Mr. Cochran's grocery establishment. Each corner of Corn Market, too, has had many proprietors. Messrs. Forster Green & Co.'s premises is built on the site of the Market House, where, after the rebellion in 1798, several persons were executed. The other corner now occupied by the Messrs. Reis and Co. 1, was Paddy Gaw's snuff shop, opposite which Mr. Verner (who was afterwards Sovereign for several years) distributed arms to the inhabitants who volunteered to protect the town during the excitement of the rebellion.
Some places not so conspicuous, have also undergone many changes. The stores off Ann Street, which were in the occupation of Campbell Graham for general purposes, have been since converted into wholesale and retail spirit vaults by Samuel Boyle, at which place the M'Clean Club was created and established. Again, the Thistle Tavern, 2 in Arthur Square, built by Alexander Moreland for the sale of provisions, was afterwards a show room for the exhibition of waxworks and other entertainments of a similar character. The Gas Company at that time occupied it as their offices, and Bragg and Milford took it up successively for the grocery business.
The Nelson Club, in Donegall Place, was kept by Mrs. Hurst, and was well attended. The old pear trees which hung over the wall in that thoroughfare and Castle Lane - planted there to adorn the Castle Gardens, when the Castle was occupied by the Donegal family, were removed for the erection of Devlin's and Gunning's

1. Now Leahy, Kelly & Leahy.
2. Rebuilt for the Grand Restaurant.

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buildings. During the period succeeding this, the private families began to move from Donegall Place-and at present only two dwelling-houses remain in their original form.1 Such names as Douglas, M'Ilveen, Batt, Holmes, Shaw, Sinclair, Bateson, Crawford, Ferguson, Tomb, Clarke, and Vance, will be remembered by many as inhabitants of Donegall Place. All processions or displays, either civil or military, were witnessed in that locality. Some time after the Battle of Waterloo portions of two regiments were disbanded there, and I remember the officers being chaired by the men. The hats and coats which were thrown up on that occasion, soon changed owners-many persons who never carried a gun being seen afterwards in some military costume.
The White Linen Hall, as it was called, and the Flags-meaning Donegall Place-was the principal promenade in fine weather, especially on Sunday evenings. The great attraction was the military band, which, on the space in front of the present archway or entrance to the hall, gave a two hours' performance. The main walk round the Hall was enclosed from this space by an iron railing on each side, with small gates for ingress and egress. The most respectable of the persons listening to the music were distributed on both sides, and it was the practice to turn and walk round between each piece, which rendered it necessary at times for the great crowds at the rear of the hall, to change sides in succession. During this ceremony the democrats stood their ground, with the bandsmen in the centre. Oil lamps distributed at distances of about twenty yards all round the Hall-some of the standards are still to be seen in the railing-made it a pleasant walk even in the winter evenings.
Education was stimulated into an effort for ascendancy in Belfast early in the present century. The Belfast Academy 2, had been some time established, whilst the Academical Institution, with other minor establishments, ensured a number of good teachers. James and Isaac Shaw taught and managed a school in the large room next to the Donegall Arms Hotel, 3 where Hyndman's salerooms were until lately situated. Bullick's school was then held at 82 High Street, and the house and class-rooms are still to be seen.4 Telfair's school was in Ann Street, and Davis's in Castle Street. These English and mercantile schools were well attended, the pupils being thoroughly instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. In addition to these elevating studies

1. i.e. Crawford and Ferguson's, which, along with Mr. Ferguson's garden, were cleared away for Robinson & Cleaver's establishment.
2. At corner of Academy street, now Mr. Hogg's office and stores. Removed to new building named Belfast Royal Academy in Cliftonville.
3. Now J. Robb & Co.'s premises.
4. Taken down in beginning of 1894.

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they generally had a set fight to dispose of on Saturdays. Mr. Spence taught the writing classes in the Academical Institution, and had a private evening class in Arthur Square.
Dr Hincks and Dr Montgomery were the principals at the Institution, and Drs. Bruce and Gray, who were succeeded by Dr. Bryce, at the Academy, with Mr. Armstrong as writing master. Young ladies' schools were also numerous, and were managed by ladies of such names as Misses Burden, Goyer, Digby, Auchinleck, Featherston, Lewis, Simms, and Knowles assisted by able professional men. Belfast in the present century has had its full share of literary, scientific, and professional men the list embracing such names as Drennan, Drummond, Mitchell Thompson Knowles, M'Adam, Andrews, Blain, Craik, Napier, Cairns, O'Hagan, M'Neill, Montgomery, and Cooke, with a number of others who have distinguished themselves in the pulpit, on the platform, and in the professors chair, at home and abroad.
The few clergymen who officiated in our different places of worship often met on the same platform to discuss matters concerning the people's welfare. Vicar Macartney and Dr. Crolly might have been seen. arm-in-arm, making their way to some meeting for benevolent purposes. In those days the Parish Church, St. George's Church, and the Roman Catholic Chapel in Donegall Street were the largest places of worship. The Presbyterian churches were small until the places of worship of Dr. Cooke, in May Street, and Dr Morgan's in Fisherwick Place, were erected. On two occasions whist Dr Hanna's Church in Rosemary Street was being repaired and re-built the use of the Parish Church was granted to his congregation by the Vicar. Dr. Edgar had an additional little church built in Joy's Field, the building being now occupied as a wareroom in Alfred Street.
Our medical men who were always conspicuous for ability and benevolence, have succeeded one another up to the present, and the names of Thompson, Wallace, Wales, M'Kibbin, Forcade, Forsythe, M'Cluney, M'Cormick, and Maclurcan, will still be fresh in the memory of some.
Lawyers flourished then as they do now in all rising towns. The most popular were Wright, Garrett, Macrory, Stewart, Arthurs, Cranston, Elliot, Montgomery, Wallace and Waterson - who was succeeded by Bates Crawford and Russell, Davidson and Torrens, and many more, all engaged in the work of trying to take care of their clients and themselves.
We had also a number of eccentric "limbs of the law." Doyle, Hayes, or Dan Shanahan, would have collected your small debts as if they were their own, and Johnny Magennis or Tully M'Kenny would have advised at once in the most difficult case, whilst Dan M'Donnell would have put an insolvent through the

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court to his entire satisfaction. Mr. Montgomery, the first owner of what is now called the Castle Market, was a little man of a dark complexion. He was called "Yellow Montgomery." His office was in the remaining portion of the old Castle, and his clerk's name was Oliver. On one occasion a party called with him to consult about some legal business, and in the progress of the consultation used some very insulting language. Mr. Montgomery stood at the fire listening to these abusive remarks, and between every sentence quietly said, "Take a note of that, Oliver." Our open Borough elections excited extreme political party feeling, which exists only to a small extent at the present time. The Liberals and Conservatives, or rather the Catholics and Orangemen, became pitted against each other. John M'Clean, the Catholic champion, and his party would attack the Orangemen on a July anniversary. John Lynn, again-better known as "Lippy Lynn" - defended the Orangemen as their champion; and pitched battles and skirmishing were kept up for a considerable time, especially during Parliamentary elections, which sometimes lasted a whole week. The political societies attended to the registrations, and every Quarter Sessions became a cause of terror to Mr. Gibson - then the Chairman of the county - as Alex. Montgomery and Richard Davison would contest every case just as if the result of the next election entirely depended upon it.
These societies were supported on the Conservative side by the following well-known names - Emerson Tennent, Dunbar, Davison, Bates, Halliday, Fenton, M'Kibbin, Shaw, Kane, and Getty; and on the Liberal side we had Ridley, Grimshaw, Steen, Barnett, Gibson, Finlay, M'Namara, Charters, Dobbin, and Dunville.
The population began to grow rapidly as the spinning mills and weaving factories increased. The districts of Millfield, Carrick Hill, and the Pound were thickly populated by old families long connected with Belfast, and strangers coming amongst them were looked upon with suspicion for some time. In these localities the cock fights and dock fights generally originated. The principal occupation of the people was weaving, but many of them wrought at the production of various articles exposed for sale in the stalls of Smithfield. Ballymacarrett, Sandy Row, and Brown Square were the greatest weaving localities. The sound of the shuttle was heard almost in every house.
In Belfast the present generation of our leading men are not equal in stature to the men of the former. For instance, in the medical faculty, Dr., or Sir James Murray, Dr. Forcade, Dr. M'Donnell, Dr. Purdon, Dr. Arrott, Dr. Reid, Dr. Thomson, Dr. Forsythe, were all above the average; as were also Dr. Montgomery and Dr. Bruce, to say nothing of such men as Coulson, Verner,

page 42
M'Neill, Grimshaw, M'Clean, Getty, Braddell, M'Dowell, Vance, Bottomley, Dunbar, Shannon, M'Cammon, Charles, Dowdall, and many more fine tall men in different ranks of life. We had one very tall man who was called by all the juveniles of the community "the big Quaker." His funeral created quite a sensation, as many out of curiosity went to see the length of the coffin, which was elevated on an open bier.
The most important changes that have taken place in Belfast are - the great increase in the population, and the price or value of land in the neighbourhood. Farms of land and town parks, which once were held at from seven to ten shillings per acre, on terminable leases, were renewed to the tenants by the late Marquis, and granted in perpetuity in many instances for a nominal sum compared with the value of the property.
These town parks have now been built on, and are producing from forty to sixty pounds per acre annually. In some old leases granted on the Donegall estate-even in comparatively small farms-an acre or so more than the lease described was occasionally discovered when a proper survey was made. A piece of ground within the borough boundary, at the junction of two roads, containing a house and garden, appears in no map or lease, nor has ever yielded any rent. It is at this moment in the occupation of the descendants of the first occupier 1.
The people of Belfast in the present generation are principally strangers. Living examples of successful merchants who came into Belfast from the neighbouring districts are to be found in every street; even our late fellow-townsman, James Hart, the advocate of home trade and reciprocal duties, told us that he himself had ridden from the County Armagh into Belfast, and put up his horse in Kilpatrick's yard in Arthur Street when he came to he apprenticed to the manufacture of the staple fabric for which the town has since become so famous. Long may good and enterprising men be attracted here for commercial and scientific purposes, and may our native town prosper and flourish, and extend on every side until it clambers the slopes of the beautiful green hills that encircle it.

1. Mr. Cunningham is the person referred to. At corner of Stranmillis and Malone Road. The house named "Abbotsford" now occupies the site.

(Gaffikin part III)

POPULATION OF BELFAST, TAKEN EITHER IN 1822 or 1823.

                   Houses Male Female
Castle street ........ 60 148 194 Magee's entry ..... 21 21 27
High street .......... 98 312 359 Cunningham's court. 34 72 68
Hanover quay and 
M'Kinstry's entry .... 16 45 52
King street .......... 18 39 42   Lettuce lane ........ 59 163 170
Marlborough street..... 9 42 48   Hall's court ......... 9 17  14
Prince's street .......37 140 180 Donaldson's entry..... 5 17   9
Back lane and 
Diet's entry .........  5  8 12
Prince's court........ 27 76 66   Barrack street ....... 78 309 332
Weighhouse lane ...... 35 88 103  Kennedy's entry ....... 5 13 20
Forest lane .......... 49 148 116 Ilamilton court ....... 5  5  5
Lower Church lane .....41 116 130 Murphy row ............ 6 10  7
Cole's alley ......... 19 53 47   Pound street ......... 26 79 80
Porter's court and 
Orange row............ 19 32 33
Hamilton's court....... 5 13 23   College sq. north ...... 7 30 33
Pottinger's entry..... 34 91 100  Academical Institution.. 0 83 20
Jay's entry .......... 17 55 45   College sq. south ...... 2  7  9
Jay's court ........... 2  3  9   House of Correction..... 0 27 18
Wilson's entry ....... 22 71 73   Wellington place ....... 8 40 66
Crown entry .......... 14 28 42   Donegall sq. north...... 9 21 48
Quin's entry .......... 2  4  7   Do. east ............... 8 24 46
Ann street .......... 104 272 354 Do. south............... 9 15 24
Corn market .......... 26 70 63   Do. west................ 1  4  6
M'Cutcheon's entry..... 8 15 16   Wellington lane ........ 5  9 18
Donaldson's entry..... 14 32 41   Chichester street ..... 22 56 100
Upper Churchlane...... 12 20 39   Upper Arthur street ....15 29 54
Telfair's entry ...... 15 54 50   Montgomery street....... 2  5  8
Cooney's court ....... 18 39 42   Great Edward street..... 9 23 30
William st. south..... 18 47 70   Cromac street ......... 34 59 62
George's lane ......... 4 21 20   Upper Chichester st..... 3  3  4
Thomas court ......... 11 41 31   Arrotts lane ........... 9 32 25
Poultry Square ....... 10 33 32   Cromac lane ............ 2 10 9
Arthur street ........ 24 54 113  May street ............. 7 20 19
Castlelane ........... 14 33 40   Macaulay lane .......... 5 26 19
Hammond's court ....... 5 22 26   Bamber's square ........ 4 12  7
Castle place .......... 4 13 11   Market lane ........... 20 70 104
Calendar street ....... 8  6  6   Market street ......... 25 73 104
Donegall place ....... 23 96 165  Mary street south ...... 5  3  5
Foiantainlane ......... 1  6  4   Scott's row ............ 8  9 17
Fountain street ...... 12 37 28   Henrietta street ....... 4  5  7
South mews ............ 1  1  3   Hamilton place ......... 4 15 10
Queen Street .......... 9 24 20   Grace street .......... 19 14 68
Jacobson's court....... 6 11  9   Russel street........... 2  5  7
Water street .......... 2  9  4   Suburbs .............. 167 430 475
King street .......... 29 75 101 

                 Houses. Male. Females.

Bridge street......... 19 49 56    Gordon street....... 48 111 128
Waring street ........ 50 137 160  Grattan street and
Lime kiln dock and 
houses in the rere ... 92 834 254
Store lane............ 11 33 33    Mooney's entry...... 14 18 39
Chester lane ......... 21 74 74    Nelson street ...... 53 116 162
Donaldson's entry...... 3 10 6     Talbot St. and houses
Quay Lane ............ 18 45 51    in the rere ........ 58 158 226
Blue Bell entry                    Johnny's entry ...... 9 21 27
Elbowlane............. 27 69 81    Morrow's entry ..... 17 52 65 
Mitchell's ............ 9 28 33    Upper Green st....... 9 39 38
Skipper street                     Brady's row......... 12 34 34
Sugarhouse entry .......23 56 86   Robert st .......... 26 88 80
Bank Lane ..............34 93 102  Edward st .......... 46 153 162
Hill street ........... 27 89 89   Little do ........... 5 17 26
Commercial court 
and Henry's sq ........ 12 23 28
Elliott court ..........31 25 35   Acadamy st ......... 49 128 161
Cotton court ........... 6 11  9   Rere off do. ....... 11 27 30
Mary street............ 19 61 53   James's place ....... 5  7 13
Tomb street ............20 55 61   Browns row .......... 6 18 23
Bradford square ....... 18 43 36   Curtis street ...... 15 29 50
Tomb's quay ............ 3 16 15   Rere off do, ........ 7 21 17
Corporation ground....... 3 11 7   Bairn's court ....... 4 21 17
Lower Patrick street..... 3 8 10   Clarke's lane and
James' street .......... 38 91 98  houses in the rere.. 15 67 67
Blakely................. 13 30 41  Corr's lane......... 17 30 44
Corporation street ...... 4  5 15  Caxton street ...... 44 142 148
Henry 3 6 13 
Academy court .......... 6 13 10
Corbitt's row ...........5 17 16   York street ........ 21 35 66
Little Patrick street ..69 206 248 William's row....... 16 52 64
Entry off do ............5 11 14   Rere off do.......... 5 21 15
Patrick street .........54 120 161 George's court....... 5 26 31
Entry off do ............5 12 16   York Lane........... 12 27 23
Graham's row ...........10 35 40   Frederick street.... 13 29 43
Patrick's lane ......... 9 25 33   Lancaster st., do lane
Covent garden .......... 5 9 13    and houses adjoining 82 157 212
Tennents court.......... 3 11 9    Thomas lane & court. 11 24 28
Patterson's row ........14 32 42   Tbomas ............. 12 14 26
Little York street..... 20 62 73   Kings Court and
Green st. ............. 65 170 185 houses adjoining.... 15 30 37 
Houses off do ...........6 7 16    Union place ........ 13 22 34
William's lane .........15 48 51   George st .......... 1O 21 32
Kennedy's row and 
Carrickfergus st
houses adjoining ...... 16 62 61   and houses in the
                                   M'Meekan entry, 
                                   rere of it ......... 72 245 269
or John's court ....... 12 38 28   Chichester quay ..... 6 7 18
Miller's entry ......... 3 15 12   Fever Hospital and
Crawford's row ........ 10 42 43   Dispensary .......... 0 27 32
Trafagar street ....... 17 19 45   Poorhouse and
Houses odd do........... 6 15 16   Infirmary ........... 0 165 182
Nile st................. 6 11 19   Infantry Barrack .... 0 342 116
House off do,........... 6 11 14   Artillery do......... 0 13 3
Boyd's court ........... 6 18 15   Suburbs............ 129 399 497
Ellen's court .......... 7 18 25 

Donegall street....... 76 225 323 Castle court .......... 6 20 29
Little do ............ 63 210 245 Caddell's entry ...... 28 91 79
Thompson'scourt ...... 10 16 14   Legg's lane ........... 9 13 16
Church street ........ 18 30 54   Rosemary street ...... 45 72 102
John street .......... 55 144 159 Hercules street ..... 103 266 292
Union street ......... 61 193 240 Fulton's entry ........ 7 16 17
Berryhill's court...... 4 8 11    Kennedy's do.No.1..... 13 43 44
Birch lane ........... 13 56 53   Do. No.2 ............. 14 59 47
Stephen's row ......... 7 33 33   Bell's row ........... 23 76 80
Charles street........ 39 99 128  Charlemont row ....... 30 105 119
Mustard street ....... 84 288 328 New row .............. 17 36 43
William street ....... 42 121 151 Black's court ........ 63 125 170
Long lane ............ 13 43 46   Forcade'sentry ....... 25 58 66
Margaret street ...... 48 142 176 Hudson's entry ....... 55 168 161
Carrick hill st ..... 172 507 526 Berry street ......... 45 105 137
Drummond's court...... 22 73 75   Chapel lane .......... 24 64 44
Taylor's row ......... 10 31 33   Mill street .......... 63 142 201
M'Adam's court ....... 10 26 33   Marquis street ....... 32 107 144
Lodge lane ........... 54 145 143 West street .......... 32 125 152
Peter's hill ........ 106 267 246 Smithfleld square..... 56 172 182
Brown square west..... 57 183 166 Dalton's entry ........ 8 17 20
Do. south............. 51 172 205 Francis street ....... 22 54 72
Gardener street ...... 45 141 143 Winetavern street..... 49 176 196
Mitchell's row ....... 35 122 129 Do. court ............. 9 24 24
North st ............ 183 501 538 Samuel street ........ 31 123 116
Law's court ........... 7 13 23   Law's entry .......... 32 46 71
Mattear's court ...... 12 28 50   Gregg's row .......... 39 121 140
Allen's entry ......... 6  7 19   Millfield Street..... 167 449 508
Wright's entry ........ 5 10  9   Hunter's court .......  5 13 15
M'Crea's entry ........ 7 11 12   Tate's court .......... 7 20 23
Rice's entry .......... 5 12 16   Tanner's court ....... 14 39 37
Snugborough entry...... 5 11 12   M'Master's court...... 10 11 19
Stormont's entry....... 9 16 16   Sweep's entry ........ 10 16 14
Suffern's entry ....... 7 17 25   Magee's entry ......... 7 21 27
Round entry .......... 20 60 73   Ferguson's court....... 9 16 27
Keenan's row .......... 7 10 10   Mill dam side ........ 16 21 37
Wilson's row .......... 8 21 37   Halfpenny's entry..... 14 32 47
Graham's entry ....... 24 68 69   Alexander's row ....... 7 27 32
Orr's entry .......... 10 16 32   Boomer's place ....... 13 47 66
Winecellar entry....... 8 17 13   Suburbs ............. 169 455 484

Total Houses, 2,746 Males, 7,667. Females 8,714

Grand Total - Houses, 7,099 Males, 17,354. Females, 19,763

Total Males and Females, 37,117.

The estimated present (May, 1894) Number of Houses is about 59,000 and the Population about 289,000

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